GUEST: KITTY COLES' MALLORCA SPECIAL
Travel tips, insider knowledge + 2 recipes!
Happy Friday!
I’m thrilled that this week we have the marvellous Kitty Coles offering up some wisdom on the beautiful Mallorca. Expect travel tips, what to order, when to go and how to make a couple of top tier Mallorcan recipes at home. I hope you love it, Kitty is a fantastic food writer and never fails to put out some of the best recipes around. Check out her book here!
In other news, mark your calendars for next wednesday! I’ll be sending out a bonus newsletter with some BIG NEWS in it. I’ve been waiting a very, very long time to tell you a big fat secret and the How I Cook crew are hearing about it first.
Enjoy today’s words and I’ll see you next wednesday!
B x
KITTY COLES’ MALLORCA SPECIAL
You might be wondering why a pale, ginger girl is writing about the sunny Spanish island of Mallorca. Does my freckle-covered face and handbag full of factor 50 give away that I’m not exactly a local?
I’ve spent a lot of my life on the island. My grandpa was a travel agent in the ’50s and ’60s, and his work took him to Mallorca—so much so that my dad and his siblings grew up there and went to school on the island. My dad then moved back to the UK, where he and my mum opened a restaurant when I was five which they ran it until my twenties, then made the (very wise) decision to return to Mallorca. Which means I now call it “home” and head over for weekends, birthdays, Christmas or just any excuse . If I could, I’d spend half the year there, which I did back in 2022 when I worked as a chef at a beach restaurant in Sóller. It was mostly very hot and busy, but the mid-service swims and sunsets made up for it.
What to Order When You’re on the Island?
“Kitty, can you just order for the table?” is how most dinners out with friends begin—and while I don’t mind, I love nothing more than when someone else takes charge. My dad has always been the one to order for me wherever we go, and when it comes to eating out in Mallorca, he’s especially good at knowing all the best local dishes. Knowing what to order is a skill, especially when you’re on holiday. So, I thought I’d give you a little helping hand for when you visit with some of my favourites.
Llonguets – Iconic Mallorcan bread rolls, traditionally eaten at breakfast or as a mid-morning snack. They’re often filled with a slab of tortilla, tomatoes, sobrasada, jamón, or cheese. Head to Portixol for a coastal walk followed by a café con leche and a tortilla llonguet at Es Vaixell.
Pa amb Oli – If you go to a restaurant, you’ll likely be given a plate of tomatoes, garlic, a stack of grilled bread, a bottle of extra virgin olive oil, and some aioli. Rub the garlic on the toasted bread, slice the tomato in half, and rub it over the bread until only the skin is left. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and season with salt. Perfect. Alternatively, you might be served bread already rubbed with tomato - equally as good.
Sobrasada – One of Mallorca’s most famous ingredients—a soft, spreadable cured sausage made with pork, paprika, salt, and spices. The classic way to eat it is thickly spread on pa amb oli or toast, but I love adding it to crispy potatoes or serving it with a fried egg. (Cal Dimoni does the best one but each town will have their own)
Tumbet – Similar to ratatouille, this dish features layers of fried aubergine, potatoes, and peppers, topped with a rich tomato sauce. My mum makes an amazing version, and we often have it alongside roast chicken at home.
Coca de Trampó / Mallorquin – A thin, crispy olive oil pastry topped with tomatoes, peppers, and onions (or sometimes greens and onions). I often grab a slice for breakfast from the local bakery when I’m out.
Porcella (Suckling Pig) – I always go to Mesón Can Pedro in Genova (where my dad grew up) for the best suckling pig on the island. I think it’s one of the biggest restaurants in Spain?
Arròs Brut – A rice soup with rabbit, snails (and anything else going), and saffron. It often arrives at the table still bubbling in a thick terracotta dish plus a stack of bowls for everyone to share. This is a must order if you're visiting in the cooler months.
Sopa Mallorquina – Made with thin slices of stale bread soaked in a vegetable broth with cabbage, tomatoes, onions, and sometimes pork or sobrasada, though it’s often vegetarian. It’s a bit like ribollita and usually thick enough to eat with a fork.
Frito Mallorquín – My dad’s favorite! Often eaten for breakfast with a beer or wine at local bars. It’s an offal-based dish with peppers, potatoes, and onions.
Ensaimada – The classic spiral pastry made with lard. I grew up on these! For the best ones, go to Joan de s’Aigo in Palma, Forn Sant Francesc in Inca, or Fornet de la Soca.
Gató de Almendra – A light almond cake served in big wedges with a hefty dusting of icing sugar. They also do a delicious version with apricots and sobrasada.
Some General Advice
Mallorca is amazing out of season—much better, in fact. My favourite months are February/March (for the almond blossom), April/May/early June, and then September–November. It’s considerably cheaper, the sea stays warm, and the beaches are quiet. The food is better. I could go on… So, if you’re thinking of booking a trip, consider going outside of July and August. (I get that some people are restricted with kids, and it will still be amazing if you go then.) The key is to stay somewhere where you can cook. The produce in Mallorca is incredible, so make the most of eating the best tomatoes, vegetables, fruit, and fresh fish.
Stock up for the week with fresh fruit and veg at the Sunday Market in Santa Maria.
Hire a bike in Palma and Cycle down the coast past Portixol and end up at The Bungalow for lunch.
Drive around the middle of the island—it’s just as beautiful as the coast. I love the hike in
Alaró followed by a slow roast lamb lunch at Es Verger.
Take a jamón-stuffed baguette or sit on the beach at sunset with stuff from the market and a bottle of Cati Ribot or Jugovins (my favourite Mallorcan wines).
Visit a traditional grill house such as Meson Can Pedro, Sa farinera or Can Torrat.
Just a heads-up: the roads are small and windy, so if you’re thinking of visiting places like Deià or Sóller in the height of summer, expect it to be busy.
COCA DE TRAMPÓ / MALLORQUIN
When I’m in Mallorca, I religiously go to the flea market in Consell, followed by the veg market in Santa Maria down the road. I like to go quite early to avoid the crowds, so by 10 am, I’m ready to stop off for a slice of this and a coffee. This pastry is very forgiving—no chilling or technical skills required. I use it for all kinds of things, and it’s a great one to know. I’ve done the classic red pepper and onion topping here, but you can top it with whatever you like.
INGREDIENTS
For the Pastry
250g plain flour
60ml extra virgin olive oil
60-70ml water
½ tsp salt
½ tsp baking powder
For the Topping
2 medium ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
2 red peppers, cored and roughly chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
A generous pinch of flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp sweet paprika
½ tsp crushed fennel seeds
4 pickled chillies, roughly chopped (optional)
Anchovies, to serve (optional)
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 190°C (fan).
In a bowl, mix the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the olive oil and water, then mix until a dough forms. Knead briefly until it comes together, adding a splash more water if it’s too dry. Wrap in cling film and pat down into a 1cm disc then set aside while you prep the veg.
In a bowl, mix the chopped tomatoes, peppers, and onion with olive oil, salt and pepper, fennel seeds, paprika, and pickled chillies (if using). Let it sit for 5 minutes.
Roll out the pastry on a floured surface into a rough rectangle, about ½ cm thick then transfer to a 30 x 20 cm low-sided baking tray. (There’s enough olive oil in the pastry to stop it from sticking, so you shouldn’t need to line it.) Don’t worry if it doesn’t perfectly fit, just patch up the sides until it’s evenly covered. It’s a very forgiving dough so you can cut and stick as many times you like. Trim off any overhanging edges.
Spread the vegetable mixture evenly over the dough, leaving a slight border then bake for 25-30 minutes until the edges are golden and crisp. Serve warm or at room temperature, cut into squares, and topped with anchovies if you like.
CHEAT’S TORTILLA
I’ve been eating tortillas all my life. Proper ones too. The kind that are 10cm high, pale, and have that distinct olive oil, oniony, potatoey taste I love so much. I’ll admit, I love making them and get immense satisfaction from achieving that perfect, light golden dome. But let’s be honest—it’s not the easiest. You need a special pan, a LOT of olive oil, and quite a bit of time. So here’s my cheat’s version. Perfect for when I’m craving those flavours but can’t be bothered with the fuss. It’s sort of like a huevos rotos. The key here is the onions. Be patient and don’t turn the heat up too high as they’ll burn. If you need to, scoop the onions out before adding the potatoes and eggs, then add them on top.